4/7/08 - Plan extra time to explore Utah’s 5 national parks (and the Grand Canyon, too)
Karl Stevens, Director, Distance Education, Southern Utah University and member of the NUTN 2008 Planning Committee offers the following information for anyone planning to stay over and visit many of Utah's beautiful sights.
If you’re traveling to Utah for NUTN 2008 plan to stay a few extra days and experience the beauty of Southern Utah. Our state boasts five national parks as well as access to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. You haven’t seen red rock until you’ve visited Utah.
Overall, if you are looking for something you'll never see anywhere else, I would choose either Arches or Bryce Canyon National Parks. Zion and Bryce are probably 4.5 hours from Park City. Arches would likely be 5-6 hours. It's farther away and on two-lane roads south of Provo. If you've seen Zion and Bryce, Arches would be a good choice, and you could combine Canyonlands and Dead Horse Point. You could easily visit Arches, Canyonlands, and Dead Horse Point State Park in two days.
Moab, Utah, is a launching point for several parks. Moab is a madhouse in the summer, and you would want to make lodging reservations early. If you choose Bryce, there is lodging in Panguitch, Ruby's Inn, Tropic and perhaps Cannonville. Ruby's Inn is basically a large Best Western and a well-developed RV and camping area. It's definitely a tourist stop, but is very nice. We camped there for three nights last summer. It's only a couple of miles from the park entrance. The other towns are 12-30 miles away.
Arches National Park is near Moab, Utah. It has incredible monoliths and unsurpassed natural arches. The famed Delicate Arch is there and is well worth the hike. The hike is 1.5 miles over steep, but smooth sandstone. In June, it might be quite warm, but I've done it in July without too much suffering. There is plenty to see from the car or with short, easy hikes. Arches is always busy in the summer, but not terribly overcrowded.
Arches has two main areas. One is called the windows district. It has a number of arches that can be seen from the road or can be hiked to easily; usually less than a half-mile from the road. The other part of the park is about 20 miles of winding road that leads to the Delicate Arch parking lot and to other scenic pull-outs. There's a really nice campground in that section. The farthest point of that section is a turn-around where you can park and go in several directions on foot to different arches. The largest arch in the world is on that trail, and I think it's about a 2 or 3 mile round trip hike on level ground.
Dead Horse Point State Park is north of Moab. The road climbs up about 2000 feet and turns back to the south toward the Colorado River. The Point is actually a peninsula that juts out from the plateau. It provides a view that looks over the Colorado River, La Sal Mountains, and far to the west. It has a narrow access that is about 30 feet wide which is where the cowboys placed a fence to pen in the horses on the Point. There is a visitors' center and picnic areas. About 30 years ago, the Point was used for the world hang-gliding championship. It's pretty scary to think people jump off that cliff.
If you choose Arches and Dead Horse Point SP, you will also be near Canyonlands National Park. Canyonlands can be accessed from both north and south of Moab. It has views and formations sort of like Grand Canyon. Dead Horse Point is in the same general area as the north part of Canyonlands.
The same road that leads to the Dead Horse Point turnoff also lead to the northern part of Canyonlands. It's a beautiful drive to Grand Island Mesa and to Upheaval Dome. The Dome is really neat. It's a round crater-like formation that's about a mile across. It's a short hike from the parking area.
I would say you could see Arches in a day and the other two locations in a day. So in two days, you could see quite a bit. If you have more time, you could drive up the Colorado River from Moab or go farther south into San Juan county and see some of the sights there. Moab is a nice town with good souvenir shops and a few decent places eat. In the summer it is overrun with mountain bikers and Jeepers, so lodging could be scarce. There are many brand name hotels there, and you could expect to pay $100 a night for the Super 8 type places. There are also family-owned places that are nice. The Bowen hotel comes to mind. There are also some KOA cabins if you're so inclined.
Bryce Canyon National Park is like nothing you will see anywhere else. There are many hiking trails for all levels of fitness. It can also be seen from overlooks if hiking is not in your plan. It's rather removed from any sizeable communities, but there is lodging at the park or in any of the small towns within an hour's drive. Bryce is about 7,000 feet high, so it's considerably cooler than the other parks (but you'll get worse sunburn).
If you visit Bryce, you could also visit Zion National Park if you want to do some driving. Zion is very impressive with its 1000-foot cliffs and grottos. Very good hiking there as well, but it will be scorching hot in June (110 degrees is common). Zion is also restricted to shuttle traffic, so you have to park and ride if you want to see the main canyon. If you were to enter Zion from Bryce Canyon (or vice versa) you would be able to drive through the park which includes a mile-long tunnel. Zion would likely be the most crowded of them all. There is lodging all over the place near Zion. St. George is the largest town within 50 miles.
A final choice is Capitol Reef National Park. It is very remote and probably the least attractive of your choices, but is still a unique experience. It is mostly a drive-through park, but has some good hiking if you know where to go. Boulder Mountain is nearby, and makes a nice side trip.
